Our previous post introduced this subject with all its complexities and controversies.
With this post I just want to add a collection of useful resources for you to visit to help you decide which direction to take... which innoculations are legally required, and which are vital for the health of your pet.
What we are trying to achieve here is a balancing act of... giving the very best care to our pets [after all some of these diseases are potentially fatal] and also wanting to keep our pets fit and healthy in the safest and best way possible for their individual health.
Are you a Twitter member? Have you seen our Twitter updates in the margin? If not I strongly advise - have a look!
I was informed [last week] that there were well over 40 vets, and counting, on Twitter. You could join up and find out some opinions on this subject. Try petdoctorforum as a starting place for useful information. So easy to join, and so helpful and friendly.
The following link will take you to a very informative article on innoculations, and the article webpage itself has links to many other articles which you should find very useful... Just Click Here!
Another website with lots of articles - and a very decided view on booster injections! Click Here.
A 'resolved' question! found in Yahoo Answers... Check it out!
For one more link, with a very different perspective... Click Here. [It came via the petdoctorforum.]
If you check out all the above links, including Twitter, and the places they recommend that you should visit to get further information, then you will have a lot to think about before you finally make the right decision for your best friend!
{If your dog suffers from seizures [fits] please use the following link to read about the difference in frequency for innoculations which the website claims should apply Canine Guardian Angels. Please check with your vet! See post dated April 16th for seizure information.)
Monday 30 March 2009
Friday 27 March 2009
Lhasa Apso innoculations, annual boosters and immunization
This is a vast, complex, and increasingly controversial subject! Made even more complicated by the fact that different states, islands, countries and governing bodies have different requirements, laws and policies.
In this blog post I will endeavour to talk about the subject in general with regard to both puppies and grown dogs and about booster injections and also give general help on where to find more information.
One first thought on requirements is that if your pet travels with you, either for holidays or to enter dog shows, to different states, countries, etc. then you will need to comply with the prevailing innoculation/immunization requirements of that area. You will need certificates before your pet is allowed to enter the country.
[For example... dogs from the UK, whilst not needing a rabies certificate when at home, will need an innoculation and pet passport if they are to be allowed to enter the EU countries.]
Also in the UK puppies should not be allowed on the ground in public places until they have completed their initial course of injections... yet there are still many puppies who slip through this net and they could, potentially, both catch, and pass on, the life threatening diseases which the innoculations seek to prevent.
Another consideration is... is your pet older likely to ever go into kennels? If so, you need to know if it is a requirement to be able to produce a current certificate of immunization. If that is the case, you will have to keep up the booster programme for your pet.
The controversy over booster injections rages, with even the suppliers of the drugs in some cases saying that a three-yearly booster would be an option. I'm afraid there is no definitive answer as yet - you will have to make up your own mind, bearing in mind both the points above, and also any further research you undertake.
Some say that elderly dogs are more susceptible to the diseases which the boosters cover, and some, worryingly, say that elderly dogs are more likely to suffer side effects from the booster injections. Another thought is that size of dog alters the equation - in that small dogs are more likely to suffer side effects just because of their smaller bodies. Set against this is the fact that small dogs are normally longer lived... your Lhasa Apso will outlive many larger dogs.
You'll have to comply with all laws and requirements which prevail in your country and/or state, take into consideration whether you will use kennelling at any time, and also any international travelling you intend to do with your pet, and then decide what you think is best.
Talk over the current thinking with other pet owners you trust, your veterinarian, and also use online resources to get more information.
If you want to save money on vets bills, and who doesn't, yet have all the knowledge and confidence to look after your pet and his/her health in a first class manner do check out the link I am about to give you. They do cover failsafe innoculation information within the book, and at the moment there are some really good freebies which come with the book, including one on healthy dog food recipes.
The following link will take you to a Doggy Health Problems book [& First Aid freebie]... from the 'Secrets to Dog Training' team whose books, information and emails can be an invaluable aid to training.
I will gather together a collection of website links where useful information on innoculations, immunization and annual boosters can be found and post it as a separate blog post shortly.
{If your dog suffers from seizures [fits] please use the following link to read about the difference in frequency for innoculations which the website claims should apply Canine Guardian Angels. Please check with your vet! See post dated April 16th for seizure information.)
In this blog post I will endeavour to talk about the subject in general with regard to both puppies and grown dogs and about booster injections and also give general help on where to find more information.
One first thought on requirements is that if your pet travels with you, either for holidays or to enter dog shows, to different states, countries, etc. then you will need to comply with the prevailing innoculation/immunization requirements of that area. You will need certificates before your pet is allowed to enter the country.
[For example... dogs from the UK, whilst not needing a rabies certificate when at home, will need an innoculation and pet passport if they are to be allowed to enter the EU countries.]
Also in the UK puppies should not be allowed on the ground in public places until they have completed their initial course of injections... yet there are still many puppies who slip through this net and they could, potentially, both catch, and pass on, the life threatening diseases which the innoculations seek to prevent.
Another consideration is... is your pet older likely to ever go into kennels? If so, you need to know if it is a requirement to be able to produce a current certificate of immunization. If that is the case, you will have to keep up the booster programme for your pet.
The controversy over booster injections rages, with even the suppliers of the drugs in some cases saying that a three-yearly booster would be an option. I'm afraid there is no definitive answer as yet - you will have to make up your own mind, bearing in mind both the points above, and also any further research you undertake.
Some say that elderly dogs are more susceptible to the diseases which the boosters cover, and some, worryingly, say that elderly dogs are more likely to suffer side effects from the booster injections. Another thought is that size of dog alters the equation - in that small dogs are more likely to suffer side effects just because of their smaller bodies. Set against this is the fact that small dogs are normally longer lived... your Lhasa Apso will outlive many larger dogs.
You'll have to comply with all laws and requirements which prevail in your country and/or state, take into consideration whether you will use kennelling at any time, and also any international travelling you intend to do with your pet, and then decide what you think is best.
Talk over the current thinking with other pet owners you trust, your veterinarian, and also use online resources to get more information.
If you want to save money on vets bills, and who doesn't, yet have all the knowledge and confidence to look after your pet and his/her health in a first class manner do check out the link I am about to give you. They do cover failsafe innoculation information within the book, and at the moment there are some really good freebies which come with the book, including one on healthy dog food recipes.
The following link will take you to a Doggy Health Problems book [& First Aid freebie]... from the 'Secrets to Dog Training' team whose books, information and emails can be an invaluable aid to training.
I will gather together a collection of website links where useful information on innoculations, immunization and annual boosters can be found and post it as a separate blog post shortly.
{If your dog suffers from seizures [fits] please use the following link to read about the difference in frequency for innoculations which the website claims should apply Canine Guardian Angels. Please check with your vet! See post dated April 16th for seizure information.)
Thursday 26 March 2009
FREE for website owners & bloggers
Check the following link if you are interested in adding the brilliant Clickbank 'Hop Ad Builder' to your website or blog the easy way... I was sent the link and it's free.
.....................................................................................
P.S. It is approved by Clickbank ... Hop Ad Builder
P.P.S. Don't forget to check my Twitter updates!
.....................................................................................
Another freebie!
If you are looking to slim - don't know what it's like - the following free offer was sent to me - https://www.purehoodia.co.uk/secure/pages/main.php - copy and paste the link to check it out.
[I'm not an affiliate or anything! Don't gain from offering it, though the website does recruit affiliates.]
.....................................................................................
P.S. It is approved by Clickbank ... Hop Ad Builder
P.P.S. Don't forget to check my Twitter updates!
.....................................................................................
Another freebie!
If you are looking to slim - don't know what it's like - the following free offer was sent to me - https://www.purehoodia.co.uk/secure/pages/main.php - copy and paste the link to check it out.
[I'm not an affiliate or anything! Don't gain from offering it, though the website does recruit affiliates.]
Tuesday 24 March 2009
Lhasa Apso Training and safety
Did you catch our previous post?
Please do take a look at the 'Amusing' link in the previous post... and please do give it pause for thought.
Don't throw sticks for your Lhasa Apso, or any other dog for that matter, bits can break off and dogs can swallow them AND THEY CAN GET STUCK. Vets have to perform many operations on dogs who have various foreign objects in their stomachs... also there is the chance that the stick could get stuck in the throat/windpipe - very serious. [Balls which are too small for your particular breed of dog can also cause this type of problem.]
We are fortunate with the breed of dog which we have - RR's - their considered opinion is that... 'if you throw it, you fetch it'. No exceptions!
Please do take a look at the 'Amusing' link in the previous post... and please do give it pause for thought.
Don't throw sticks for your Lhasa Apso, or any other dog for that matter, bits can break off and dogs can swallow them AND THEY CAN GET STUCK. Vets have to perform many operations on dogs who have various foreign objects in their stomachs... also there is the chance that the stick could get stuck in the throat/windpipe - very serious. [Balls which are too small for your particular breed of dog can also cause this type of problem.]
We are fortunate with the breed of dog which we have - RR's - their considered opinion is that... 'if you throw it, you fetch it'. No exceptions!
Laughter is GOOD for you...
Do you find the following link Amusing?
Every Lhasa Apso Potty Training blog post can't be on a serious or useful subject!
ArcaMax are brilliant for Newsletters on many and various subjects. The above came from New Yorker Dogs and Cats... I like the gardening one, very helpful - short and to the point.
Every Lhasa Apso Potty Training blog post can't be on a serious or useful subject!
ArcaMax are brilliant for Newsletters on many and various subjects. The above came from New Yorker Dogs and Cats... I like the gardening one, very helpful - short and to the point.
Monday 23 March 2009
Updates, special offers, and freebies
Sorry about the delay in the post on innoculations... I will sort out the content asap!
Just two quick mentions... Click here to join or find out how you can make 'Cashback' savings or click the following link to check out their list of freebies, including a dog related one.
Also the online pet retailer 'Pet Supermarket' [see link in right-hand margin, or the 'resources' box below]... has loads of special offers on at their website at the moment. Well worth checking out.
.....................................................................................
Resources:
Online pet retailer
Click here to find out how you can make 'Cashback' savings.
Just two quick mentions... Click here to join or find out how you can make 'Cashback' savings or click the following link to check out their list of freebies, including a dog related one.
Also the online pet retailer 'Pet Supermarket' [see link in right-hand margin, or the 'resources' box below]... has loads of special offers on at their website at the moment. Well worth checking out.
.....................................................................................
Resources:
Click here to find out how you can make 'Cashback' savings.
Tuesday 17 March 2009
Have you seen the Twitter updates in the right-hand margin?
If you are a member of Twitter you'll already know that there are loads of animal crazy people on there!
Just into dogs? Then you'll be most amused by some of the videos, I love the one posted by 'thibby' of Rudy v the Dog Door.
If you love cute cats too... you really won't want to miss The Daily Cute!
.....................................................................................
P.S. Tomorrow's post will be into the rather more serious subject of innoculations.
If you are a member of Twitter you'll already know that there are loads of animal crazy people on there!
Just into dogs? Then you'll be most amused by some of the videos, I love the one posted by 'thibby' of Rudy v the Dog Door.
If you love cute cats too... you really won't want to miss The Daily Cute!
.....................................................................................
P.S. Tomorrow's post will be into the rather more serious subject of innoculations.
Monday 16 March 2009
Have I mentioned before within this blog that there is a no-cost way that you can help rescue animals?
Just click on the following link to The Animal Rescue Site, do it DAILY. Please don't forget!
Just click on the following link to The Animal Rescue Site, do it DAILY. Please don't forget!
Lhasa Apso Potty Training Problems... more thoughts
Just a couple of ideas as an add-on to the post on 'Potty Training Lhasa Apso... beyond the basics' made yesterday!
Are your problems just in the peeing department or does your pet go to the loo inside too?
And does the problem occur at a specific time of day? Or just at any time?
If we are talking of an elderly dog, have you had kidney problems ruled out. Also are we talking about deliberate indoor peeing, or is it just leaking or dribbling urine that is the problem?
[Leaking/dribbling, although most common in bitches, can also occur in the occasional dog and can be dealt with very successfully with tablets from your vet. I know it works! Been there done that!]
Now for those thoughts... keep A DIARY, either written, or kept in the head, of all the occurances and problems you encounter - with detailed information on what, when, where, and any special circumstances occuring at the time, such as exciting events, something scary, or anything else out of the ordinary which occurs before the peeing or soiling event.
Keep the diary for a week or a fortnight, then review it, and see if any pattern is emerging.
If the problem was as simple as just peeing overnight or first thing, before you could get him/her into the garden... then allowing unrestricted access to water early in the day, then stopping or decreasing the amount allowed just before bed should solve that problem.
Where? If where they go is somewhere on the way to the outside door, are they just not getting there soon enough? Also if they have chosen a 'special' place to go inside the house, you could either stop access to that place or have a doggy litter tray there.
The results from your diary should give you some answers, and maybe create more questions too! Keep working on it... in a relaxed and calm state of mind!
If you want more help the 'Secrets to Dog Training' book [see right-hand margin] should help and you can also send in personal questions to them. And you can always post a query here on the Lhasa Apso Potty Training blog and we will see if we can come up with an answer, or at least be of some help.
Are your problems just in the peeing department or does your pet go to the loo inside too?
And does the problem occur at a specific time of day? Or just at any time?
If we are talking of an elderly dog, have you had kidney problems ruled out. Also are we talking about deliberate indoor peeing, or is it just leaking or dribbling urine that is the problem?
[Leaking/dribbling, although most common in bitches, can also occur in the occasional dog and can be dealt with very successfully with tablets from your vet. I know it works! Been there done that!]
Now for those thoughts... keep A DIARY, either written, or kept in the head, of all the occurances and problems you encounter - with detailed information on what, when, where, and any special circumstances occuring at the time, such as exciting events, something scary, or anything else out of the ordinary which occurs before the peeing or soiling event.
Keep the diary for a week or a fortnight, then review it, and see if any pattern is emerging.
If the problem was as simple as just peeing overnight or first thing, before you could get him/her into the garden... then allowing unrestricted access to water early in the day, then stopping or decreasing the amount allowed just before bed should solve that problem.
Where? If where they go is somewhere on the way to the outside door, are they just not getting there soon enough? Also if they have chosen a 'special' place to go inside the house, you could either stop access to that place or have a doggy litter tray there.
The results from your diary should give you some answers, and maybe create more questions too! Keep working on it... in a relaxed and calm state of mind!
If you want more help the 'Secrets to Dog Training' book [see right-hand margin] should help and you can also send in personal questions to them. And you can always post a query here on the Lhasa Apso Potty Training blog and we will see if we can come up with an answer, or at least be of some help.
Sunday 15 March 2009
POTTY TRAINING LHASA APSO - beyond the basics!
We have many articles on 'the basics' of potty training a Lhasa Apso [and any other pup or rescue/adult dog for that matter] within our January Archives... perhaps the Friday, 16th January blog is a good place to start.
This post, however, hopes and attempts to go... beyond the basics!
First, are you still having difficulties despite having followed all the advice in all our January blog posts?
Second, have you contacted your vet and had any physical problems ruled out of the equation?
Third, have you bought any of our recommended books or courses? Of particular relevance, I think, are the 'Secrets to Dog Training' course, and the Jan Fennell and Victoria Stilwell books from our Dog Books links.
[You'll find links at the bottom of many of our posts and for convenience they are also in our right-hand margin.]
***
Now for some 'beyond the basics' thoughts!
OK, so we have ruled out any physical problem, you've followed all the advice in the January blog posts and also followed the advice in the book or course you decided to study?
Yes?
Are you certain, 110%, that IT IS YOU WHO IS THE LEADER OF YOUR PACK... that you are 'top dog' in your house?
[If that is the case your dog should never feel the need to 'scent mark' or do any of the other alpha dog behaviours... like eating first, entering and exiting the house or room first, and deciding upon the direction to take when going out.]
So, where do we go from here?
Mental problems seem to be the only answer left.
Is there something which could be making your pet frightened or unhappy?
Are you wound up about the situation? Your pet will sense your feelings, and get even more up-tight him or herself... and a vicious circle will occur. Your pet will always want to do everything he or she can, to make you pleased and happy with him/her.
I would advise starting again from scratch with your training, in a totally relaxed fashion. Just study the steps which work for most potty training situations... use all the praise and treats you can think of, and then just re-start your training schedule!
If at all possible, a holiday, a few days away together with your pet might be just the thing... a fresh environment could well help to remove any negative associations and/or worries for both of you.
***
Added thoughts... how old is your dog? If it is a pup is it old enough to be neutered, if not a pup has it been neutered? Is it an 'only one', or do you have other dogs within your family?
Taking the former questions into consideration... could the problem possibly be hormonal. Pups do get a surge of hormones at a certain age, and an older dog, living with a dog of the opposite sex could also be experiencing a hormone rush - which just possibly could lead to some peeing problems.
This post, however, hopes and attempts to go... beyond the basics!
First, are you still having difficulties despite having followed all the advice in all our January blog posts?
Second, have you contacted your vet and had any physical problems ruled out of the equation?
Third, have you bought any of our recommended books or courses? Of particular relevance, I think, are the 'Secrets to Dog Training' course, and the Jan Fennell and Victoria Stilwell books from our Dog Books links.
[You'll find links at the bottom of many of our posts and for convenience they are also in our right-hand margin.]
Now for some 'beyond the basics' thoughts!
OK, so we have ruled out any physical problem, you've followed all the advice in the January blog posts and also followed the advice in the book or course you decided to study?
Yes?
Are you certain, 110%, that IT IS YOU WHO IS THE LEADER OF YOUR PACK... that you are 'top dog' in your house?
[If that is the case your dog should never feel the need to 'scent mark' or do any of the other alpha dog behaviours... like eating first, entering and exiting the house or room first, and deciding upon the direction to take when going out.]
So, where do we go from here?
Mental problems seem to be the only answer left.
Is there something which could be making your pet frightened or unhappy?
Are you wound up about the situation? Your pet will sense your feelings, and get even more up-tight him or herself... and a vicious circle will occur. Your pet will always want to do everything he or she can, to make you pleased and happy with him/her.
I would advise starting again from scratch with your training, in a totally relaxed fashion. Just study the steps which work for most potty training situations... use all the praise and treats you can think of, and then just re-start your training schedule!
If at all possible, a holiday, a few days away together with your pet might be just the thing... a fresh environment could well help to remove any negative associations and/or worries for both of you.
Added thoughts... how old is your dog? If it is a pup is it old enough to be neutered, if not a pup has it been neutered? Is it an 'only one', or do you have other dogs within your family?
Taking the former questions into consideration... could the problem possibly be hormonal. Pups do get a surge of hormones at a certain age, and an older dog, living with a dog of the opposite sex could also be experiencing a hormone rush - which just possibly could lead to some peeing problems.
Saturday 14 March 2009
Mites, Mange, Worms and Fleas
We have done blog posts on fleas, and worms, and also mentioned ear mites... to complete this list of nasties, just another couple of things to watch out for are...
1] Fur mites
and
2] Mange causing Sarcoptes scabiei mites.
Fur mites are just about visible to the naked eye, but are not easy to identify. They can infest dogs, cats and rabbits. They cause irritation to your pet and may also bite owners of affected pets.
The Sarcoptes scabiei mite causes mange in dogs and foxes - we once had a dog infested with these mites, caught from local badly infected foxes - the problem causes intense itching and is even more problematical because the mite lives below the surface of the skin. I'm happy we had a short coated dog so it showed up quite quickly on his face.
Nowadays the treatment for Sarcoptes scabiei has advanced but it used to be that dogs had to be treated with something on the lines of sheep dip... not nice.
My recommendations are the same as before... timely [QUICK] diagnosis and treatment... know about potential problems BEFORE they occur. That is where this blog can help, and also where the dog health book could add to your peace of mind!
Note: you'll find a link to the book I mention in our right-hand margin, or below some of the other 'health issue' posts.
1] Fur mites
and
2] Mange causing Sarcoptes scabiei mites.
Fur mites are just about visible to the naked eye, but are not easy to identify. They can infest dogs, cats and rabbits. They cause irritation to your pet and may also bite owners of affected pets.
The Sarcoptes scabiei mite causes mange in dogs and foxes - we once had a dog infested with these mites, caught from local badly infected foxes - the problem causes intense itching and is even more problematical because the mite lives below the surface of the skin. I'm happy we had a short coated dog so it showed up quite quickly on his face.
Nowadays the treatment for Sarcoptes scabiei has advanced but it used to be that dogs had to be treated with something on the lines of sheep dip... not nice.
My recommendations are the same as before... timely [QUICK] diagnosis and treatment... know about potential problems BEFORE they occur. That is where this blog can help, and also where the dog health book could add to your peace of mind!
Note: you'll find a link to the book I mention in our right-hand margin, or below some of the other 'health issue' posts.
Friday 13 March 2009
Your Lhasa Apso and Worms
Another good reason to try and stop your pet eating faeces [see a previous article on the blog] is the risk of them picking up worms!
There are four types of worms which your pet can suffer from and they cannot all be treated with the same treatment/medicine. A sign that your pet may be suffering from worms can be that they are forever hungry [more than normal, I mean!] and that they are losing weight at the same time.
In the northern hemisphere the approaching 'better weather' - at least we hope it will be better - will probably mean that more dogs are out and about, so your pet is more likely to come into contact with pets who are not up to date with their worming programme.
If you want help and advice I suggest that you add the new pet health book by the same people as the Secrets to Dog Training [formerly Sit, Stay, Fetch] book to your 'doggy library'! Knowing how to deal with various small problems can save a small fortune in vets fees.
Pet insurance is all very well for the big problems, but the excess on the policies usually precludes any claims for 'minor' ailments!
.....................................................................................
Resources:
Click Here for the book on Doggy Health Problems + First Aid freebie... from the 'Secrets to Dog Training' team.
There are four types of worms which your pet can suffer from and they cannot all be treated with the same treatment/medicine. A sign that your pet may be suffering from worms can be that they are forever hungry [more than normal, I mean!] and that they are losing weight at the same time.
In the northern hemisphere the approaching 'better weather' - at least we hope it will be better - will probably mean that more dogs are out and about, so your pet is more likely to come into contact with pets who are not up to date with their worming programme.
If you want help and advice I suggest that you add the new pet health book by the same people as the Secrets to Dog Training [formerly Sit, Stay, Fetch] book to your 'doggy library'! Knowing how to deal with various small problems can save a small fortune in vets fees.
Pet insurance is all very well for the big problems, but the excess on the policies usually precludes any claims for 'minor' ailments!
.....................................................................................
Resources:
Click Here for the book on Doggy Health Problems + First Aid freebie... from the 'Secrets to Dog Training' team.
Thursday 12 March 2009
Rescue a Lhasa Apso
When you take on a rescue Lhasa Apso you are taking on an unknown quantity, you cannot know what traumas he or she has been through before you came forward to rescue them!
I just cannot comprehend how anyone can treat any animal cruelly. And to do it to a small defenceless puppy! Well, I'm afraid I think the same should be dished out to them, as they do to the poor animal. Why does anyone buy [and they aren't cheap] a pedigree puppy in the first place, if they are not willing to look after it, and train it responsibly, so that they have a best friend to be rightly proud of?
But, all that said, what to do when you inevitably experience problems with your rescue Lhasa [or any other breed for that matter] which were caused by their past ill-treatment?
Many people have turned to Secrets to Dog Training and the team there have many stories of problems solved with the advice given within the book and also the personal help given to the buyers of the book.
Another good resource for learning how to treat rescue dogs are books by Jan Fennell... try Amazon for secondhand copies of her first book.
Often when you have had your rescue pet for a year or two and they have gained confidence in the world as a whole... they may try to assert dominance at home, and more problems may surface for a time. This is quite a common phenomenon... and sometimes leads to rescue animals being returned to the RSPCA, breed rescue, or to the dog pound.
.....................................................................................
Resources:
Secrets to Dog Training
Just click 'Amazon'
then use the link in the left-hand margin for 'Animal Care & Pets', then type Jan Fennell into the Search box at the top of the page.
I just cannot comprehend how anyone can treat any animal cruelly. And to do it to a small defenceless puppy! Well, I'm afraid I think the same should be dished out to them, as they do to the poor animal. Why does anyone buy [and they aren't cheap] a pedigree puppy in the first place, if they are not willing to look after it, and train it responsibly, so that they have a best friend to be rightly proud of?
But, all that said, what to do when you inevitably experience problems with your rescue Lhasa [or any other breed for that matter] which were caused by their past ill-treatment?
Many people have turned to Secrets to Dog Training and the team there have many stories of problems solved with the advice given within the book and also the personal help given to the buyers of the book.
Another good resource for learning how to treat rescue dogs are books by Jan Fennell... try Amazon for secondhand copies of her first book.
Often when you have had your rescue pet for a year or two and they have gained confidence in the world as a whole... they may try to assert dominance at home, and more problems may surface for a time. This is quite a common phenomenon... and sometimes leads to rescue animals being returned to the RSPCA, breed rescue, or to the dog pound.
.....................................................................................
Resources:
Secrets to Dog Training
Just click 'Amazon'
then use the link in the left-hand margin for 'Animal Care & Pets', then type Jan Fennell into the Search box at the top of the page.
Tuesday 10 March 2009
Lhasa Apsos & Fleas & Ticks + 'Cats and Dogs'
We are, in the Northern Hemisphere, about to come into Spring and, hopefully, warmer weather!
But this is also a time of year when fleas and ticks can become a problem so a short post on the subject seemed timely.
A post was made on the subject of ticks on the 18th of February, 2009... so please refer to our February archives for details of that... but now I want to also concentrate on fleas and to mention households which contain both dogs and cats.
Fleas are around an 1/8" [2-3mm] in length, normally dark brown to black in colour, and very fast moving! They need no introduction to most pet owners. They feed on your pet's blood and cause intense irritation and also, in some cases, allergic skin reactions.
Treat immediately! That is the most important advice, and treat all soft bedding, carpets, etcetera, so that they are eliminated entirely. You can get treatments from your vet or from reliable pet stores.
If your house is home to both dogs and cats... the following advice could be life saving!
1] Keep all pet medicines in a special, and safe place, away from both animals and children. Keep in a locked cupboard if necessary.
2] Keep Dog and Cat medicines separate from each other.
3] Medicines suitable for dogs are not suitable for cats... and vice versa.
4] Each animal should have its own separate, labelled storage box, so that there can be no mix-ups.
The medicine storage box could be an ideal place to store your copy of the pet health book we recommend Check it out Here!
But this is also a time of year when fleas and ticks can become a problem so a short post on the subject seemed timely.
A post was made on the subject of ticks on the 18th of February, 2009... so please refer to our February archives for details of that... but now I want to also concentrate on fleas and to mention households which contain both dogs and cats.
Fleas are around an 1/8" [2-3mm] in length, normally dark brown to black in colour, and very fast moving! They need no introduction to most pet owners. They feed on your pet's blood and cause intense irritation and also, in some cases, allergic skin reactions.
Treat immediately! That is the most important advice, and treat all soft bedding, carpets, etcetera, so that they are eliminated entirely. You can get treatments from your vet or from reliable pet stores.
If your house is home to both dogs and cats... the following advice could be life saving!
1] Keep all pet medicines in a special, and safe place, away from both animals and children. Keep in a locked cupboard if necessary.
2] Keep Dog and Cat medicines separate from each other.
3] Medicines suitable for dogs are not suitable for cats... and vice versa.
4] Each animal should have its own separate, labelled storage box, so that there can be no mix-ups.
The medicine storage box could be an ideal place to store your copy of the pet health book we recommend Check it out Here!
Lhasa Apso dogs and Ear Problems
Ear problems are surprisingly common. To understand the problems better we need to know a bit about the anatomy of the ear.
Ears are complex structures which are protected by an ear flap. The narrow external ear canal carries the sound down to the ear drum - then from there it travels to the middle and inner ear. Most ear problems seen in dogs [and cats too] are in the external ear canal.
If your pet exhibits symptoms such as ear rubbing, head shaking and reddened skin in the lining of the ear canal - with or without an unpleasant smelling discharge - then canker could be the problem.
Causes could be:
1] Ear mites
2] Foreign bodies - the grass seed time of year often sees an increase in these problems. Grass seeds are built to stick to and hang on to surfaces, so that they can spread!
3] Allergic reactions.
Finding out what exactly the cause is - then treating it accordingly - is the key to success with this problem.
Having a copy of our recommended Doggy Health Problems book + First Aid freebie... from the 'Secrets to Dog Training' team would be an invaluable aid when you need to know if you should visit the vet for a particular problem, or, if you have the correct equipment in your medicine cabinet, you can treat it yourself.
This book will not only save you money on vet bills, but help you give your pet the best care possible, as promptly as possible. It also instills invaluable confidence - you'll know what to do, and when.
Ears are complex structures which are protected by an ear flap. The narrow external ear canal carries the sound down to the ear drum - then from there it travels to the middle and inner ear. Most ear problems seen in dogs [and cats too] are in the external ear canal.
If your pet exhibits symptoms such as ear rubbing, head shaking and reddened skin in the lining of the ear canal - with or without an unpleasant smelling discharge - then canker could be the problem.
Causes could be:
1] Ear mites
2] Foreign bodies - the grass seed time of year often sees an increase in these problems. Grass seeds are built to stick to and hang on to surfaces, so that they can spread!
3] Allergic reactions.
Finding out what exactly the cause is - then treating it accordingly - is the key to success with this problem.
Having a copy of our recommended Doggy Health Problems book + First Aid freebie... from the 'Secrets to Dog Training' team would be an invaluable aid when you need to know if you should visit the vet for a particular problem, or, if you have the correct equipment in your medicine cabinet, you can treat it yourself.
This book will not only save you money on vet bills, but help you give your pet the best care possible, as promptly as possible. It also instills invaluable confidence - you'll know what to do, and when.
Buying online for convenience & savings
Are you looking to buy your pet supplies online?
If you are spending more than £59 [before March 31st] you can claim £5 off your total bill by using the following code 'pspetfive'.
Just click the link to the...Online pet retailer with more than 4,000 products... and remember to use the 'pspetfive' voucher code.
By the way, there are also some special offers on many brands of pet food available throughout March!
If you are spending more than £59 [before March 31st] you can claim £5 off your total bill by using the following code 'pspetfive'.
Just click the link to the...
By the way, there are also some special offers on many brands of pet food available throughout March!
Monday 9 March 2009
Pedal Bin Wars... or a fight too far!
Knowing what is important, when dog training, is perhaps the most indispensable skill.
Of vital importance is the fact that your status as pack leader is established. Also your dog must 'Come' when called, and do a 'Sit' or 'Down' on command... these two rules can be so important in any dangerous situation.
After establishing your pack leadership credentials and always getting immediate obedience to the 'Come' and 'Sit' commands... what else you consider to be important is up to you - some fights you might consider 'a fight too far' - like my pedal bin wars, know when to retire, but do retire 'undefeated'!
Our rescue dogs have always been ones to grab anything edible if at all possible! Whilst the dogs we had from puppies didn't exhibit this behaviour... even though they were incorrigible scroungers!
But up until the dog we have now... and only recently... since he's been with us for some years - we have never had a problem with the pedal bin.
Other problems, yes, and they all had an unfailing knowledge of the whereabouts of every food item in the house - so if the phone should ring, and anything was mistakenly unguarded whilst going to answer it, then that food was polished off with alacrity. I well remember an occasion when one Ridgeback wolfed down a packet of frozen sausages, taken with a couple of raw eggs, whole... tasty!
The first night we had our first rescue he managed to open a cupboard door [not easy] and get a chocolate cake out of the middle tin of a stack of three cake tins - all done very quietly, as we didn't find out till the next morning.. He, to be polite, had slight stomach problems the following day - but no other ill effects!
He had the most persuasive eyes and face, and would sit in front of complete strangers if they were eating; ice creams in particular were a favourite. He would sit and watch every mouthful and no way could you move him. Very embarrassing. But no-one could ever resist him for long!
But we digress from the pedal bin wars. First the bin was OK to be left with the pedal facing into the room, then in time it had to be turned round
so that for me it was no longer a pedal bin! After a time that didn't work, as brute force and ignorance was employed and he just knocked it over. So it was fitted tightly into a corner. Then it again had to be turned round. Then a chair was placed in front of it in its corner. Then a washing-up bowl was put on top of it, so that the lid could not be lifted with that persistent nose - I had a job too!
How that was overcome I'm not entirely sure. You would leave the room for a few seconds and bang over would go the bin - he must have hooked a front paw round it and pulled it out and over.
He has a particular fancy for egg shells - I know they are a good source of calcium - and potato peelings. [At least he doesn't employ the tactics of a cat we once had, who would get on the draining board and hook her claws into my hands so that she could get at the potato peelings!]
He was never caught in the actual act of opening the bin, so what could you do?
Best just admit defeat and put the bin away in a cupboard - more convenient than having the contents spread all over the floor and an upset stomach being risked!
The morals of this story?
Perhaps that you should avoid putting temptation in your pets way... if he or she gives in to temptation, well you know it's your own fault for putting it there! And if there is a way around a potential problem... take it... know what is important, and what isn't!
Of vital importance is the fact that your status as pack leader is established. Also your dog must 'Come' when called, and do a 'Sit' or 'Down' on command... these two rules can be so important in any dangerous situation.
After establishing your pack leadership credentials and always getting immediate obedience to the 'Come' and 'Sit' commands... what else you consider to be important is up to you - some fights you might consider 'a fight too far' - like my pedal bin wars, know when to retire, but do retire 'undefeated'!
Our rescue dogs have always been ones to grab anything edible if at all possible! Whilst the dogs we had from puppies didn't exhibit this behaviour... even though they were incorrigible scroungers!
But up until the dog we have now... and only recently... since he's been with us for some years - we have never had a problem with the pedal bin.
Other problems, yes, and they all had an unfailing knowledge of the whereabouts of every food item in the house - so if the phone should ring, and anything was mistakenly unguarded whilst going to answer it, then that food was polished off with alacrity. I well remember an occasion when one Ridgeback wolfed down a packet of frozen sausages, taken with a couple of raw eggs, whole... tasty!
The first night we had our first rescue he managed to open a cupboard door [not easy] and get a chocolate cake out of the middle tin of a stack of three cake tins - all done very quietly, as we didn't find out till the next morning.. He, to be polite, had slight stomach problems the following day - but no other ill effects!
He had the most persuasive eyes and face, and would sit in front of complete strangers if they were eating; ice creams in particular were a favourite. He would sit and watch every mouthful and no way could you move him. Very embarrassing. But no-one could ever resist him for long!
But we digress from the pedal bin wars. First the bin was OK to be left with the pedal facing into the room, then in time it had to be turned round
so that for me it was no longer a pedal bin! After a time that didn't work, as brute force and ignorance was employed and he just knocked it over. So it was fitted tightly into a corner. Then it again had to be turned round. Then a chair was placed in front of it in its corner. Then a washing-up bowl was put on top of it, so that the lid could not be lifted with that persistent nose - I had a job too!
How that was overcome I'm not entirely sure. You would leave the room for a few seconds and bang over would go the bin - he must have hooked a front paw round it and pulled it out and over.
He has a particular fancy for egg shells - I know they are a good source of calcium - and potato peelings. [At least he doesn't employ the tactics of a cat we once had, who would get on the draining board and hook her claws into my hands so that she could get at the potato peelings!]
He was never caught in the actual act of opening the bin, so what could you do?
Best just admit defeat and put the bin away in a cupboard - more convenient than having the contents spread all over the floor and an upset stomach being risked!
The morals of this story?
Perhaps that you should avoid putting temptation in your pets way... if he or she gives in to temptation, well you know it's your own fault for putting it there! And if there is a way around a potential problem... take it... know what is important, and what isn't!
Sunday 8 March 2009
Crufts
Looking for info about Crufts? Use this link for info - www.the-kennel-club.org.uk/index.asp?newpage=crufts - just copy and paste.
I believe there is some genuine 'cause for concern' on health issues. Just my personal view! You can check out some of the 'Letters of Support' towards the bottom of the page.
Having had a quick whizz through a couple, I still feel that a good case was made on the alteration of head size in the King Charles. I don't think anyone would disagree that the problem was on-going, just getting worse and worse cumulatively over the last 25 years or so.
Behavioural problems can be caused by physical malfunctions, problems with the brain, etcetera - but many problems which end up with behaviourists or trainers are just problems with the owners and their methods of training, or the fact that they haven't really trained their pet at all! In other words incorrect, inconsistent, or non-existent training.
I believe there is some genuine 'cause for concern' on health issues. Just my personal view! You can check out some of the 'Letters of Support' towards the bottom of the page.
Having had a quick whizz through a couple, I still feel that a good case was made on the alteration of head size in the King Charles. I don't think anyone would disagree that the problem was on-going, just getting worse and worse cumulatively over the last 25 years or so.
Behavioural problems can be caused by physical malfunctions, problems with the brain, etcetera - but many problems which end up with behaviourists or trainers are just problems with the owners and their methods of training, or the fact that they haven't really trained their pet at all! In other words incorrect, inconsistent, or non-existent training.
Stomach Upsets and Four Meals a Day
Our current rescue Ridgeback came to us at about 2 1/2 years old. He had had a particularly traumatic puppyhood and young life.
He is now pretty 'bomb-proof' but in the early years many things could send him into a state of pure terror - certain smells, men, people wearing hats, shadows, raised voices, bicycles and so much more.
He was still very thin and weak when we took him home, and SO afraid... and that was after being cared for and spoiled with individual treatment and love, for six weeks by a breeder member of the breed Rescue Trust [RRWT] with her dogs.
His ill treatment started at around 4 months old and went on until the RSPCA rescued him [either at 11 months old, or after 11 months in time - not sure on this detail] they had a hard job with him, but eventually he went out to a new owner. This rescue failed... the RSPCA had him back and that was where the breed Rescue Trust was contacted and took him on.
When we got him he was being fed dried food for 'sensitive' stomachs. That food went out of production! We had to change to another food, and he seemed to lose weight slightly then. Also he had still had occasional bouts of diarrhoea and sickness which didn't help stabilize his weight.
He stole food whenever he had the remotest chance... usually it was a flour based item like bread or cake - this was what he was supposed to be allergic to! But it didn't seem to upset his stomach in any way.
It was recommended by the vet after a bout of diarrhoea that he be fed 3 small feeds of a bland food to help settle his stomach - it worked for a small time. But still the occasional stomach upsets.
Later it got to be 4 smaller feeds daily... but with this regime he could eat virtually anything. As long as his meals were divided into these four small portions and spread out at about 4 hourly intervals he could enjoy any suitable foods.
We now believe that his problem all along was due to his starvation and ill-treatment as a puppy... so his stomach didn't develop fully and large meals just don't suit him. [Maybe like stomach stapling in reverse!] Anyway he has been on this regime for some years now and IT WORKS.
Do what suits your pet... you will get to know their individual requirements. Give them adequate exercise, and don't let them gain excess weight.
....................................................................................
NOTE:
When your vet recommends a bland diet - the norm is boiled rice and chicken.
He is now pretty 'bomb-proof' but in the early years many things could send him into a state of pure terror - certain smells, men, people wearing hats, shadows, raised voices, bicycles and so much more.
He was still very thin and weak when we took him home, and SO afraid... and that was after being cared for and spoiled with individual treatment and love, for six weeks by a breeder member of the breed Rescue Trust [RRWT] with her dogs.
His ill treatment started at around 4 months old and went on until the RSPCA rescued him [either at 11 months old, or after 11 months in time - not sure on this detail] they had a hard job with him, but eventually he went out to a new owner. This rescue failed... the RSPCA had him back and that was where the breed Rescue Trust was contacted and took him on.
When we got him he was being fed dried food for 'sensitive' stomachs. That food went out of production! We had to change to another food, and he seemed to lose weight slightly then. Also he had still had occasional bouts of diarrhoea and sickness which didn't help stabilize his weight.
He stole food whenever he had the remotest chance... usually it was a flour based item like bread or cake - this was what he was supposed to be allergic to! But it didn't seem to upset his stomach in any way.
It was recommended by the vet after a bout of diarrhoea that he be fed 3 small feeds of a bland food to help settle his stomach - it worked for a small time. But still the occasional stomach upsets.
Later it got to be 4 smaller feeds daily... but with this regime he could eat virtually anything. As long as his meals were divided into these four small portions and spread out at about 4 hourly intervals he could enjoy any suitable foods.
We now believe that his problem all along was due to his starvation and ill-treatment as a puppy... so his stomach didn't develop fully and large meals just don't suit him. [Maybe like stomach stapling in reverse!] Anyway he has been on this regime for some years now and IT WORKS.
Do what suits your pet... you will get to know their individual requirements. Give them adequate exercise, and don't let them gain excess weight.
....................................................................................
NOTE:
When your vet recommends a bland diet - the norm is boiled rice and chicken.
Wednesday 4 March 2009
More embarrassing behaviours!
Does your dog display humping behaviour even though he or she has been neutered or spayed? [Remember though neutering/spaying will not change their behaviour immediately!]
Very embarrassing! Especially when they do it to visitors who are not 'doggy people'!
Interestingly, this is often not a sexual behaviour at all, but a display of dominance.
So the way to proceed is to train them that YOU are the pack leader, and you say who enters the pack territory, and what status the person entering into it will be given. A real aid to understanding how to achieve pack leadership is a book called The Dog Listener by Jan Fennell.
....................................................................................
Resources:
Dog Books - Just click 'Animal Care & Pets'... top item in the left-hand margin... then enter your search term - either the title or the author's name will do - in the search box!
Very embarrassing! Especially when they do it to visitors who are not 'doggy people'!
Interestingly, this is often not a sexual behaviour at all, but a display of dominance.
So the way to proceed is to train them that YOU are the pack leader, and you say who enters the pack territory, and what status the person entering into it will be given. A real aid to understanding how to achieve pack leadership is a book called The Dog Listener by Jan Fennell.
....................................................................................
Resources:
Dog Books
- Just click 'Animal Care & Pets'... top item in the left-hand margin... then enter your search term - either the title or the author's name will do - in the search box!
Eating faeces... or habits we would rather they didn't pursue!
If your pet has taken to the habit of eating his or her own faeces, a good way to stop them is to add courgettes or alternatively pineapple to their diet - for some reason this dietry addition makes the faeces unpalatable to them.
Dogs do enjoy vegetables and fruits in general and you can feed your pet many different raw or cooked vegetables... for example - carrots, celery, blackberries, apple, parsley, [see my 28th Feb., 2009 post] and green peppers. Avoid onions and grapes. Also avoid raisins, sultanas, and currants... i.e. dried fruit!
Different dogs prefer different fruits and vegetables! Also their tastes often expand as they grow older. Same as we aim for with children really.
If they tend to eat other faeces distraction training is the best option. Check out my post of Tuesday 3rd March about rolling in muck; apply the rules suggested there, and hopefully you can cure the habit. But it is, I'm afraid, a habit that, once started, is difficult to break... you will need to be alert at all times.
Dogs do enjoy vegetables and fruits in general and you can feed your pet many different raw or cooked vegetables... for example - carrots, celery, blackberries, apple, parsley, [see my 28th Feb., 2009 post] and green peppers. Avoid onions and grapes. Also avoid raisins, sultanas, and currants... i.e. dried fruit!
Different dogs prefer different fruits and vegetables! Also their tastes often expand as they grow older. Same as we aim for with children really.
If they tend to eat other faeces distraction training is the best option. Check out my post of Tuesday 3rd March about rolling in muck; apply the rules suggested there, and hopefully you can cure the habit. But it is, I'm afraid, a habit that, once started, is difficult to break... you will need to be alert at all times.
Surgical Spirit... ingestion of -
People have searched online for information on dogs ingesting, by mistake, surgical spirit.
My advice is to contact your vet immediately if this should happen - the two resources I have added links to at the bottom of this post are about surgical spirit and its effects on people - I could not find anything which referred to dogs ingesting it.
And as a further suggestion for everyone who has surgical spirit as part of their medicines at home - for ticks, etcetera - is to store it safely away, and be very careful when you use it!
AND, if you want to be prepared to deal with your pets health problems, how about getting a health care book? Why not check out this excellent information goldmine. Just Click Here! to check it out... it is by the 'Secrets to Dog Training' team[see link in right-hand margin].
The 'Secrets to Dog Training' book has more than 64,516 satisfied owners. It's one of the best online training resources - and an ever growing list of happy pet owners who use it as their pet training bible tends to prove its usefulness.
In a previous post I recommended that all owners should try to attend a 'first-aid for pets' seminar - usually held by local vets surgeries - if at all possible. If this isn't practicable, then this book would be an ideal investment.
Buy it, keep it where you KNOW how to put your hands on it immediately, refer to it, and if it advises... call your vet. You can have this invaluable resource in your hands in a matter of minutes - you need never feel 'at risk' of not knowing how to cope with your pets health issues again!
Peace of mind at a very reasonable price!
.....................................................................................
Resources: - please copy and paste these links to view the documents concerned.
http://www.chem-distribution.com/MSDS/SURGICAL%20SPIRIT%20BP%20MSDS.pdf
http://www.orion.net.au/products/pdf/sur01131_msds.pdf
My advice is to contact your vet immediately if this should happen - the two resources I have added links to at the bottom of this post are about surgical spirit and its effects on people - I could not find anything which referred to dogs ingesting it.
And as a further suggestion for everyone who has surgical spirit as part of their medicines at home - for ticks, etcetera - is to store it safely away, and be very careful when you use it!
AND, if you want to be prepared to deal with your pets health problems, how about getting a health care book? Why not check out this excellent information goldmine. Just Click Here! to check it out... it is by the 'Secrets to Dog Training' team[see link in right-hand margin].
The 'Secrets to Dog Training' book has more than 64,516 satisfied owners. It's one of the best online training resources - and an ever growing list of happy pet owners who use it as their pet training bible tends to prove its usefulness.
In a previous post I recommended that all owners should try to attend a 'first-aid for pets' seminar - usually held by local vets surgeries - if at all possible. If this isn't practicable, then this book would be an ideal investment.
Buy it, keep it where you KNOW how to put your hands on it immediately, refer to it, and if it advises... call your vet. You can have this invaluable resource in your hands in a matter of minutes - you need never feel 'at risk' of not knowing how to cope with your pets health issues again!
Peace of mind at a very reasonable price!
.....................................................................................
Resources: - please copy and paste these links to view the documents concerned.
http://www.chem-distribution.com/MSDS/SURGICAL%20SPIRIT%20BP%20MSDS.pdf
http://www.orion.net.au/products/pdf/sur01131_msds.pdf
For people ... not Lhasa Apsos, or any other dogs for that matter!
Just a quick mention of a cut price treat for owners, not dogs!
Up to 6th March quote MAE2 if you are spending £25 or more and receive a 15% discount at Thorntons.
So if you need cheering up, or are looking to buy a fantastic Mothers Day present, why not just Visit Thorntons.co.uk for chocolate gifts and more?
Just don't forget to quote the special code!
But do please remember that chocolate made for people is NOT good for dogs, in fact it is very bad... even in small amounts.
Up to 6th March quote MAE2 if you are spending £25 or more and receive a 15% discount at Thorntons.
So if you need cheering up, or are looking to buy a fantastic Mothers Day present, why not just Visit Thorntons.co.uk for chocolate gifts and more?
But do please remember that chocolate made for people is NOT good for dogs, in fact it is very bad... even in small amounts.
Tuesday 3 March 2009
Lhasa Apso and Bloat [Gastric Torsion]
Though bloat is more a problem to which deep chested large dogs are prone, it can occur in any breed... so forewarned is forearmed. It is a killer, and treatment by your vet is essential, and will be required immediately.
Please refer to the link below for the full article - here I will just add some hints for prevention...
First - Feed two small meals daily, instead of one large one. [We have to feed our rescue dog 4 very small meals each day... but that is a long story.]
Second - Do not allow exercise immediately before or after feeding... a quiet rest is needed instead.
Third - Do not allow your pet to drink vast amounts of water after a meal.
Fourth - Feed off the ground at an appropriate height for your dog so that he or she does not need to bend down to eat. Put the bowl on a chair, stool, sofa, or bowl stand.
Fifth - Do not allow your pet to gulp down the food too quickly, as they will ingest loads of air at the same time. You could try a ring mould type of cake tin as a feed bowl.
Other suggestions include pre-soaking dried food, and not allowing the dog to over eat.
.....................................................................................
Resources:
Monday, March 19th, 2007 is the date to look for to access the vital informational post on Gastric Dilatation/Torsion, more commonly known perhaps as Bloat.
Please refer to the link below for the full article - here I will just add some hints for prevention...
First - Feed two small meals daily, instead of one large one. [We have to feed our rescue dog 4 very small meals each day... but that is a long story.]
Second - Do not allow exercise immediately before or after feeding... a quiet rest is needed instead.
Third - Do not allow your pet to drink vast amounts of water after a meal.
Fourth - Feed off the ground at an appropriate height for your dog so that he or she does not need to bend down to eat. Put the bowl on a chair, stool, sofa, or bowl stand.
Fifth - Do not allow your pet to gulp down the food too quickly, as they will ingest loads of air at the same time. You could try a ring mould type of cake tin as a feed bowl.
Other suggestions include pre-soaking dried food, and not allowing the dog to over eat.
.....................................................................................
Resources:
Monday, March 19th, 2007 is the date to look for to access the vital informational post on Gastric Dilatation/Torsion, more commonly known perhaps as Bloat.
How to stop your Lhasa Apso rolling in muck
Whilst I was looking for a post on bloat I came across this post we made on another blog and thought it could prove useful.
After all according to 'sods law' a dog with a beautiful - and long - coat is far more likely to go in for mucky habits! So your Lhasa Apso may be an offender, I know Spaniels often are... and our Ridgebacks aren't.
The updated post follows within quotes... "The first thing to know is that it is a completely natural thing for him/her to do, rolling in muck I mean! What they are doing is masking their own scent so that they are better able to hunt undetected! It is a throw back to their wolf days.
Next... you don't want them to do it!?!
If your Lhasa Apso is a 'regular offender' your best option is to try to break them of the habit by stopping it happening. So keep them on a lead when out walking so that they cannot access any muck.
Keep treats in your pocket and if you see any muck in your path keep a careful hold of the lead [take care not to tense up], and offer a treat to distract them. When they begin to ignore the muck and pay attention to you instead, then you are beginning to make progress.
When they are next let off the lead, call them back to you regularly, talk to them in a soft voice, play with them, and give them treats when they obey your commands. You need to be the centre of their attention, they need to want to come back to you because it is fun!
The recall is one of the most important things they can learn... both for keeping them away from muck, and for any other problems, and for the sake of safety.
If this is a new vice for them, then when you see them 'about to' commit the crime - say ah-ah in a loud and extremely harsh voice. Hopefully, this will distract them. Then recall them to you and give them a treat for returning. You will need to be alert to what they are doing at all times.
It is far easier to stop a bad habit from forming than to correct it once it has formed!"
After all according to 'sods law' a dog with a beautiful - and long - coat is far more likely to go in for mucky habits! So your Lhasa Apso may be an offender, I know Spaniels often are... and our Ridgebacks aren't.
The updated post follows within quotes... "The first thing to know is that it is a completely natural thing for him/her to do, rolling in muck I mean! What they are doing is masking their own scent so that they are better able to hunt undetected! It is a throw back to their wolf days.
Next... you don't want them to do it!?!
If your Lhasa Apso is a 'regular offender' your best option is to try to break them of the habit by stopping it happening. So keep them on a lead when out walking so that they cannot access any muck.
Keep treats in your pocket and if you see any muck in your path keep a careful hold of the lead [take care not to tense up], and offer a treat to distract them. When they begin to ignore the muck and pay attention to you instead, then you are beginning to make progress.
When they are next let off the lead, call them back to you regularly, talk to them in a soft voice, play with them, and give them treats when they obey your commands. You need to be the centre of their attention, they need to want to come back to you because it is fun!
The recall is one of the most important things they can learn... both for keeping them away from muck, and for any other problems, and for the sake of safety.
If this is a new vice for them, then when you see them 'about to' commit the crime - say ah-ah in a loud and extremely harsh voice. Hopefully, this will distract them. Then recall them to you and give them a treat for returning. You will need to be alert to what they are doing at all times.
It is far easier to stop a bad habit from forming than to correct it once it has formed!"
Monday 2 March 2009
Just a quick heads up!
Talking of dogs [and cats too] going into rescue shelters in my last post has reminded me to ask if you all remember to do your daily free click on The Animal Rescue Site.
If you don't, WHY NOT? ... and PLEASE DO! Just use the convenient link above!
Talking of dogs [and cats too] going into rescue shelters in my last post has reminded me to ask if you all remember to do your daily free click on The Animal Rescue Site.
If you don't, WHY NOT? ... and PLEASE DO! Just use the convenient link above!
T-I-M-E
When you decide to take on a puppy, or rescue dog, there is one thing you need [as well as consistency, patience, and the ability to learn how to be pack leader] and that is TIME!
Do not believe anyone who tells you that you can take your puppy or dog to a dog trainer, leave him or her with the trainer, and the dog will come back fully trained, it is a total fabrication.
You will need training at least as much, if not more than, your new pet! Also you will need to get to know each other.
Time must be spent too, on learning how to train.
Little and often is the way to train, but you must first know HOW TO train. Do NOT take on a pet if you are not willing to give of yourself in this way.
I have, sadly, read comments which complain that training takes too much time, and is basically too much hassle.
A well behaved dog is a joy around you, and around everyone else you meet, someone to be proud of... and a friend for life... spending time achieving this wonderful state is surely not too much to ask?
Can I ask ALL my readers to spread this message, please... then perhaps fewer dogs will end up in rescue facilities?
.....................................................................................
Resources:
If you think your dog deserves the best training just Click Here! to solve any, and all, the dog training problems you might have.
Do not believe anyone who tells you that you can take your puppy or dog to a dog trainer, leave him or her with the trainer, and the dog will come back fully trained, it is a total fabrication.
You will need training at least as much, if not more than, your new pet! Also you will need to get to know each other.
Time must be spent too, on learning how to train.
Little and often is the way to train, but you must first know HOW TO train. Do NOT take on a pet if you are not willing to give of yourself in this way.
I have, sadly, read comments which complain that training takes too much time, and is basically too much hassle.
A well behaved dog is a joy around you, and around everyone else you meet, someone to be proud of... and a friend for life... spending time achieving this wonderful state is surely not too much to ask?
Can I ask ALL my readers to spread this message, please... then perhaps fewer dogs will end up in rescue facilities?
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Resources:
If you think your dog deserves the best training just Click Here! to solve any, and all, the dog training problems you might have.
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